Day 17 of the Trans Canadian - discovering the history in Quebec City

Blue skies over #Quebec - from #La Citadelle

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 17

What an amazing city. Yes, everything was UP, but once you are on the plateau, there is so much to see and learn.

We were gluttons for punishment and booked two walking tours today and the fact they were back-to-back meant we had to reject lots of amazing food options on the way. Such a busy precinct and again, with the cruise ships in port, lots of lines of people snaking behind flags all glued to commentaries similar to the one we were enjoying.

Everywhere is UP until you are on the plateau

The most amazing September day - sun in full view in the clearest of blue skies all day. @Mac's choice of shorts was the masterstroke of genius for the day. His attire was more suited to that weaving steep climb we had to make to start the day from #Saint-Roch to the boardwalk of the fortifications.

Getting there and finding Tourist Bureau and best coffee in town at #Smiths

Our first guide was @Robert - aged somewhere in his 70s - studied at universities in #Quebec, in #London and in #Germany. A retired civil servant and statistician who has been doing the guiding thing for 14 years. Obviously, experienced and knowledgeable and definitely entertaining. It was one of those "rocks and posts and trees and buildings and monuments all have a story" sort of tour and we lapped it up.

Statues,  monuments and buildings all have story

Travelled through time with @Robert to think about the indigenous people, the arrival of the #Vikings and then the subsequent struggles between #France, #England and eventually the new #America for control of this land. He was doing a "good sell" on the importance of French language, custom and independence in this province even in the face of a challenge from one American in the group about the lack of #English signage. @Robert deflected the question with reference to the three ages of occupation/rule after the #Indigenous – the #French 150 years, the #English 100 years, the #Canadian 150 years and with a shrug of his shoulders, acknowledged with "pride" that it was an affirmation proclaimed in the "Treaty of Paris" that #Quebec would have the right to its language (#French) and its religion (#Catholicism.)

Architecture and artillery included in his walk and talk

Becoming familiar now with the history of #Jacques Cartier, #Champlain, #Frontenac, the #Ursulines and #Jesuits, Generals #Wolfe and #Montecalm and the very short #Battle of the Fields of Abraham. Have revisited the rise and fall of architectural influence in the city and been reminded that this UNESCO protected site is the only surviving fortified/walled city north of #Mexico.

Schools and churches 

@Robert intermingled all of this with recommendations for food and entertainment and we were sorry to part ways with him after the two and a half hours. But we were on a deadline and had to climb back up to the boardwalk to join the next tour, presented this time by #Parc des Canada.

This was a 2 hour walk with @Kimberley. An 18-year-old Arts Student at University whose #English was heavily accented and who did have trouble with some of the esoteric terms – but it was okay because the younger #Montreal couple we had with us were obviously familiar with “translate” and had their phones out finding the words “Call me @Kim it’s easier” needed.

Walking the walls

The first part of the tour took us back over some ground that we had already visited but after we reached the #Governor’s Garden it was all new territory.  The fortifications of #Quebec City date back to the 16^th century and have been through many iterations to bring it to the final 4.6 km length we see today. The original walls withstood sieges in the defence of the upper city in 1690 but the bigger story was around the bombardment of the city by the #English and the #Battle of the Fields of Abraham. This was pivotal moment in the #Seven Years’ War between the #French and #British. @Kim told a great story here of this battle where three forces, with different military strategies were defending the city. This battle was over in almost 20 minutes (mind you the slow creep of the #British up the #St Lawrence was months in the making as a prelude to winter setting in) and involved the death of both #Wolfe and #Montcalm. Historians indicate that this battle had far more reaching implications than just the fall of #New France and the #British control of “Kanata,” including the creation of its borders, the shaping of its culture and also indirectly to the #American Revolution and the creation of the United States.

Taking it to the top with @Kim

The commentary was compelling – lots of “broad strokes” of stories that challenge you to read more. Of course, in these highest parts of the city, the views were breathtaking. The river continues to be impressive – it is without a doubt a star. The cruise ships dominated the vista and along with the poor ferry battling the current of the river on every crossing, the rapidly falling tide and with the islands and mountains as the backdrop – it was all spectacular viewing.

Going underground 

Secret places

We did leave the upper reaches of the fortifications to take a look inside the casements and climbed some of the gates. Metres thick walls, deep trenches, bastions and towers and ramparts, munitions stores and living barracks – all had a story to tell. Even the triangular shape of the open spaces leading to the fortifications had a strategic value.

The threat from a #Francophone uprising and the continued need for a fortified city was said to have ended around in the mid 1860s and the fortifications fell into disrepair. Their existence today was assured by the intervention of then Governor General of Canada, #Lord Dufferin who loved #Old Quebec and established #La Citadelle as a second residence. Very glad he did – because we certainly enjoyed the layer upon layer of history it holds and those stunning panoramic views of the river.

 And yes, we continue to battle with the notion of SNOW. @Robert had us intrigued with stories of tobogganing on the boardwalk (we could see the chute where it was set up), the freezing of the river and the ice breakers that keep the it open and even the "routine" clearing of 300 cms of snow from the roads and sidewalks and everyone just going about their business.  Under the bright sun, at 24 degrees, with clear blue skies and green grass and masses of flowers - it does seem like a fairy tale.

The tobogganing run in winter - chute tiny brown streak in background - 3 lanes to this point on boardwalk!

I think the snow and ice explain why all the pavements look like this

Our heads were spinning and our legs were begging for mercy. It was time to pull up a seat and sit and watch the world go by. Got a cold drink, took up a seat outside and enjoyed the changing views as crowds wandered by. We had our own street performer serenading us as we caught our collective breathe.

Recovery- welcomed relax before downhill to home

 The good news was that all paths now lead downhill for our walk home. Had #SAQ on our hit list (go figure – the #Government of Quebec is the sole trader of alcohol in in the province - a monopoly – and prohibition is another interesting story of Canada) and made it with 10 minutes till closing.

Hard to believe that we had made the decision to “eat in tonight” – we had literally passed dozens of places today that we would have selected for dinner. But, once we were back home and kitchen duties were under way – we did OK with reacquainting ourselves with some green veggies. We hadn’t seen them in a while. And besides, we had salted caramel ice creams in the freezer and they certainly make everything better.

 

Meanwhile in 🇪🇺 with @M&I

I am not sure. What we know today, is that @Ian is continuing his “eat, eat, eat” journey – but this time in #Italy.

It was an appreciated recommendation from friends - got the "lick" of approval