Friday, September 15, 2023

Day 15 of the Trans Canadian - Montreal with rapids

On the #St Lawrence in #Montreal - perfect weather

FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 15

Got up a little more close-and-personal with the rapids today. Have to say that the mighty #St Lawrence River is quite fascinating and we are falling more in love with it as we encounter more of 3 700 kms trek to that huge estuary in the #Gulf of St Lawrence.

Having a few days in the one place has been a real bonus because we can make our own way around the city using the public transport system and have been making choices around breakfast options - either eating in or finding an on-the-go option. The whole never ending "eating out cycle" does get a little "trying" after a while - believe it or not. We have made #SecondCup a fav for a morning coffee though and included a visit to our local before wandering through some new streets in the downtown quarter (my gosh, streets were empty, where was eveyone) on what was a stunning day weather wise. Air a little crisp, but the sky the most amazing vibrant blue.  A perfect day for the water.

Quiet walk through downtown

Found the metro "M" and went underground to whisk us to the waterfront (and to save the feet for the afternoon.) We had booked our sightseeing on the water last night on the #Le Petite Navaire because there was a #Viking Cruise Ship in town (thought of @Liz and @Ross who are soooo close now to leaving on their adventure which includes a #Viking ship.) Might have been quiet uptown but the port was a little busier. There was an enormous snaking queue outside of the #Jardine Nelson in the #Jacques Cartier Park - apparently the gardens, food and live jazz are iconic at this venue. And noting that all the pubs/clubs have erected white "tent" extensions outside their venues for extra seating for the weekend crowds. Live musicians in the park, stall holders setting up. A definite weekend vibe down this end of town.
A little float on the "Little Ship II"

Boarded our little boat with a full complement of 20 passengers (including one #Asian family with two little pre school age children who chatted effortlessly in three languages!!!) and enjoyed @Gabriel's commentary delivered enthusiastically in both #French and #English. And we were laughing at him, laughing at all his own jokes which he delivered in both languages. It is sort of like a wave - the #French speakers hear it first and join him in laughter - then the #English speakers get their dose - and there is a second round of equally raucous laughter. 
There was a SPA on the river - it was crowded with people in white dressing gowns 🤣😄😅

So many additions to the #St Lawrence to make it navigable. Little islands, archipelagos and  harbours made to protect the settlement from the surge of flood waters and byways and canals created to ensure the movement of cargo from the Atlantic. Apparently all the rubble from the creation of the #Yellow line of the #Metro was used to create #St Helen where expo was held. 

From smooth to flowing in the channel - it rocked the boat and propelled us forward

We still find it hard to get our head around the whole winter thing - here the fresh water of the #St Lawrence freezes over to a depth of one metre and the areas that we are navigating today become skating rinks and the site of ice fishing. And under that metre of ice - the #St Lawrence then continues to roar from the lakes towards the coast in the Atlantic.

This was our first foray out of the stillness of the harbour into the unprotected channel where the water was flowing at a mighty speed. Our little boat was literally picked up and propelled forward by the current. We surged forward and it was a bumpy little few minutes before the Captain took us back to the calmer water.  The 45-minute ride gave us great views of the city and we could see many of the landmarks we had already visited including the cross on # Mont Royal (as of 1992 no skyscraper in #Montreal can be taller than the elevation of #Mont Royal) and the #Olympic Tower from yesterday.

It must be Friday - poisson et frites lunch 

Grabbed some fish and chips from the food trucks (while chatting to @M&I in #Rome from their vantage point in #The Vatican - isn't technology wonderful) before retracing our steps to the #Green Line to get to #Parc de Rapides. Perhaps we are getting a little too cocky, because we did jump on a bus without much prep. Somehow my statement "we have to travel 10 stops" was misheard by @Mac who thought I said we were going to the end of the line. We were separated on the bus because it was a little busy and were both watching our live maps and could see that we were veering away from the waterfront - and after a very waving arms/pointing at my phone conversation (??? I think I need another word) with a non-English speaking local we realised we were on the way to the hospital rather than the rapids. As soon as the driver made a slight turn towards the water again we were off the bus.

Oops, wrong end. No matter, we'll walk.

The park signage indicated we were 3.4 kms away from the rapids instead of the 400 metres we intended. #Bugger, missed the stop by that much. We could have just crossed the street and taken another bus back - but we decided to walk. Why not.

Surfing the #St Lawrence - facing upstream

What a bonus that was - it turned out that we had landed in a place on the #St Lawrence where the standing waves of the #Rapids are big enough for surfers to ride. And on a glorious Friday afternoon - there were plenty of surfers out to keep us entertained. 

Designated as #Habitat 67, this is a single wave, sometimes reaching a height of 2 metres, that is formed by fast moving water hitting underwater boulders. The surfers get on the wave (facing upriver) one person at a time - either from floating from their upriver entry about 20 metres ahead of the wave (and then have to furiously paddle to stop the backwards movement of their board) or paddling in at right angles to the wave. Whatever the method - there are many "failures" in trying to get out, in, on and up the wave. I must mention - you don't go anywhere - it is like riding the mechanical bull in a pub! We really want to know what this would be like, transferring the skill set to the ocean. 

Not always successful- but fun trying - very strenuous

We joined the crowd to watch make and female and young and old surfers give it their best shot. After each "fail", the surfers get washed down river, climb up the embankment and then trot their boards back to their entry point of choice. We picked our favourites - gave them nicknames - and declared the absolute winner as one of the female surfers who nailed it every time.

It was a busy day on the water - the surfers were joined by kayakers as well who were powering their way through the 4 kms of rapids. Not sure how all that works when you get to the other end? There was no turning around and coming back on the #St Lawrence - someone must be driving the vehicles down to pick up the kayaks.


The rapids are 4.8 kms long stretch on the river - and it was a real treat to walk through the parklands and enjoy them. When we reached that 3 kms mark there was signage that directed you over a series of 3 small bridges to an island for views onto the rapids. Lots of vantage points and the constant roar of the water is the memory we will take away.

Persistent, fast, noisy

 Definitely a "you have to be there" experience to see the speed and persistence of the rapids and to marvel at the engineering feat of the #St Lawrence Seaway. There are 15 locks along the seaway and goodness knows how many diversions and man-made lakes and islands. It has definitely been a highlight of the trip to see the #Great Lakes, the walk #Niagara and now to be tracing this river on its way to the #Atlantic.
Sometimes I feel like we have walked 3700 km length of the river - feet up whenever and wherever 

Of course, had to do the return journey and somehow found ourselves on the 58 rather than the 110 and had a little longer ride above ground than expected. Eventually met up with the #Green Line for our very last public transport ride in #Montreal. 

Hold rail looks like a crutch - think we needed it

At one stage we were going to do the hop on hop off bus - but at $70 each for a one day 6 hour experience - we opted for the 3 day public transport ticket at $21. Do think this was a better deal - #Montreal was such a large area to cover - in order to cover the distances and for the extended time we had on our stay here - the #Metro was a winner and our location on the #Green Line was a big bonus.

@Gael, the hotel night manager, called in at the unit to "do the exit inspection" and return our cash security deposit. Worked out pretty well actually, because we have not had a refund from any of the other accommodation options we have stayed in so far where we have managed to use the online credit transfer facility. Even better, he stayed for about an hour just "chatting." He was completing his studies to become a Financial Planner and Advisor so he was an interesting conversationalist, and we were able to talk taxes, government regulations, Anglophone Vs Francophone perspectives on Quebec, interest rates, cost of living, superannuation, winter conditions and the challenges of living at home. He was our own little "let's wrap up Montreal" tour, with a private guide, without having to walk anywhere. My feet loved it.

We are so relaxed now about packing we didn't even "pack the night before." Lounged about and instead committed ourselves to the marathon task of finishing the treats that had accumulated in the fridge over the four days of our #Montreal stay. Time to say goodbye tomorrow and take on the next train leg.

PS Don't mind admitting we are hobbling a little. @Mac has been using the brace for a knee that continues to moan and my feet are rioting (got an infected big toe) and my calves are moo-ing from #Mont Royal. Glad we have a day off tomorrow.

Meanwhile in Europe with @M&I

They have gone from their luxury digs in #Santorini to a Hostel in #Rome - but a least there is a washing machine in the hostel - so that is a bonus. Have beaten the crowds with an early morning start at #Trevi Fountain and then did the same again for a "before the crowds" tour of #The Vatican


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